General information
Orchid enthusiasts collect many hybrids, including Cattleya, one of the most popular varieties. It's native to tropical America and is sometimes called the "queen of orchids." Cattleya orchid plants produce some of the brightest and most uniquely shaped flowers in the orchid world. There are only a few details to learn about growing Cattleya orchids, but once you learn them, you'll have a beautiful, long-lasting addition to your home.
The orchid plants we call “cattleya” can be species or hybrids within the genus Cattleya , or they may be close relatives ( Laelia , Brassavola , Sophronitis , Epidendrum , Encyclia , Broughtonia ) or hybrids between these genera. Fortunately, most species and hybrids of the Cattleya tribe are easy to grow, and some are highly recommended for beginner collections. Many of them adapt beautifully to our subtropical conditions, growing equally well in pots and other containers, or naturalizing in our trees.
Some interesting facts about cattleyas concern their native growth habit as epiphytes, or tree-like plants. They can cling to a tree branch or a rocky crevice and require little soil. They are long-lived perennials, and some professional collectors own plants that are half a century old. Cattleya orchid plants grow well in soilless substrates, such as bark and rock or perlite, which mimic this natural growth habit. The thickened stems, called pseudobulbs They store moisture that the plant can use during the dry season. Let's take a closer look at Cattleya orchid care.
Light
Like most flowering plants, cattleyas require bright light to grow and bloom optimally. They require fairly high levels of light in the early morning and late afternoon, but it's advisable to protect them from direct midday sunlight. It's easy to tell if a cattleya is getting the right amount of light by looking at its foliage. Afternoon sunlight filtering through west-facing windows can be extremely hot and, without adequate ventilation and humidity, can damage the plants.
If the plant's leaves are a deep, dark green, it's not getting enough light; if the plant is a light yellow-green, it's getting too much light. Proper light levels produce attractive, medium-green foliage. If your cattleyas aren't flowering, a lack of light may be the cause, but don't suddenly move the plants from too much shade to very bright light. Gradually move the plant to brighter light, otherwise you may scorch the foliage. Some species in the cattleya family grow in near-full sun in their native habitats, although most commonly grown species and hybrids prefer slightly more shade. Let the foliage color guide you in determining the amount of light needed for good growth and flowering. In general, cattleyas require bright light, with some sunlight at the beginning or end of the day.
Temperature
Although Cattleyas originate from the tropics, where the sunlight is warm and intense, most species are found at fairly high altitudes, where the air is cool and humid, especially in the morning and at night.
Cattleya orchids require temperatures between 21 and 27°C (70 and 80°F) during the day and 12.8 and 15.6°C (55 and 60°F) at night. Higher daytime temperatures promote faster growth, but if you plan to grow the orchid in areas with higher temperatures, you'll need to maintain higher humidity, greater air circulation, and more frequent watering.
Irrigation
Improper watering, whether insufficient or excessive, leads to the death of cattleyas more than any other cause. There are two aspects to consider for proper watering: when and how. In short, cattleyas should be watered only after the soil has dried out. Watering frequency varies. Once a week is a good starting point, keeping in mind that some factors accelerate soil drying, others slow it down.
Plenty of sunlight, warmth, good air circulation, active growth, a large plant in a small pot, low humidity, the type of soil used (such as bark, gravel, tree fern fragments, etc.), windy weather, and the like all contribute to faster drying and, consequently, more frequent watering. Conversely, high humidity, dark, cold, cloudy, or rainy weather, large pots, dormant plants (i.e., not actively growing), overly compacted soil, poor air circulation, and similar circumstances will slow the drying process and therefore reduce watering frequency.
Keep in mind that some of these factors affect your entire plant collection, while others only affect individual plants. Observe each plant carefully and consider it individually. Every beginner must learn on their own, but remember that plants will recover much more quickly from a lack of water, and it's better to err on the side of caution, following the rule "when in doubt, don't water."
Humidity
Cattleyas thrive best when humidity ranges from 50% to 80%. Therefore, except in areas where natural humidity is quite high, or during cold, cloudy, or rainy days, it's important to add humidity to the growing environment, especially during the day. This can be done in several ways.
Using a humidifier tray is one of the best methods. These trays are simply a water container filled with gravel. The gravel-filled trays are filled with water to just below the surface. To prevent the plants from sitting on the constantly wet gravel, they are placed on small saucers or pieces of plastic or metal mesh placed over the trays. A full and swollen pseudobulb indicates a well-hydrated plant.
In the greenhouse, humidity is best increased by using a humidifier. Where natural humidity is high or where humidification maintains a high level of humidity, increased air movement is essential to prevent stagnation and the development of diseases. Good ventilation or the use of fans is recommended.
Flowering
Most Cattleya orchids produce one new bloom per year, and each new pseudobulb should produce flowers in the same growing season, often in late summer or winter. Some hybrids may produce two flowers per year. Depending on the species, they may produce only a few flowers or clusters of smaller, waxier flowers. The new buds are protected by a thin sheath that emerges from the center of the leaf. If Cattleya orchids don't rebloom, it's usually a light problem.
Growth cycle
Most Cattleya species have relatively distinct growth and dormancy phases during their annual cycle. During active growth, plants must be fertilized and watered regularly. Fertilize weekly during the growing season and reduce both fertilizer and water during the shorter, cooler days of winter. Hybrids in this group, however, may or may not display a distinct growth/dormant pattern. Some stop growing and go dormant in winter, while others do not. Learn to recognize the signs of growth and dormancy and care for your plants according to their needs during these phases of the cycle. The dormant phase can last a few weeks or months.
Fertilizer
In captivity, cattleyas thrive with supplemental fertilization. The best fertilizer depends on the potting mix used. For predominantly inert potting materials (coconut husks, charcoal, lava rock, perlite), we recommend a balanced fertilizer with micronutrients. Overfertilizing cattleyas can lead to root loss and subsequent death. To a lesser extent, when fertilizing a well-established plant, overfertilization can lead to vegetative growth instead of flowers, resulting in the atrophy of the sheaths. When it comes to fertilizing, it's better to err on the side of excess than on the side of lack.
Recommended fertilizers:
- Balanced fertilizer for growth: 20-20-20 (NPK) – 2 grams per liter of water – Spray once every two weeks (14 days)
- High phosphorus fertilizer for flowering: 0-52-34 (MPK) – 1 gram per liter of water – Spray every two weeks (14 days)
Repotting, substrates and propagation
Repotting is necessary when the plant's rhizome protrudes above the edge of the pot or when the soil begins to deteriorate and drain poorly. Before repotting into a new pot, it's always advisable to trim any damaged roots with a sterile cutting tool. The most common substrates are still chopped fir bark, although more open substrates like charcoal, coconut husks, or inorganic substrates like expanded clay pellets and lava rock may be a better choice in hot, humid areas of the country. The choice is largely personal and depends on what yields good results for the grower.
To repot a Cattleya, you must first clean it of old roots, rotten soil, and debris. The new soil, if possible, should be moistened before use. This is also a matter of personal preference, but soaking the soil before use helps reduce the amount of dust and makes it easier for beginners to understand when to water when they start with moist soil.
Until a plant has at least six mature pseudobulbs, it should generally be placed in a larger pot and not divided. If dividing a plant, three to five pseudobulbs are needed per division. Choose a pot that allows for about two years of growth before repotting. Cattleya orchids can be divided once the orchid has flowered and new shoots begin to appear. Each division requires at least four shoots to thrive on its own. After dividing the orchid, it is essential to keep the plants in a humid area while the roots begin to grow.
Pests and other problems related to Cattleya
Fungal and bacterial diseases of cattleya are common due to the high humidity levels they require to survive. Fungal diseases cause problems such as root rot, leaf spots, leaf discoloration, and flower spots.
